tapingfool

what do you mean by that last sentence?

should be struck by hand a final time running same head twice.

tapingfool

I wonder of anyone has ever ran the corner box during the first coat with the 2 then three for the second?

Apple24

MEANING running 6'' down the edge of the corners because of the buildup.Years ago i ran a 3 twice always built up edge.Then i smartened up and bought 2.5 columbia and 3.5 northstar head. I rarely sand between coats they work together so well.
BTW; I do know a guy who uses the 3.5 for taping and 2.5 for coating but he tapes by hand and uses a donut roller for applying mud, so the mud takes up more rolling it on vs running a a corner box in a quick pass or two.In my opinion the only way to coat the corner or anything is to overlap edges right.I dont coat my screws with 12-10-6'' knives.

Bevelation

From whatever mud I've used, I haven't had problems with not overlapping.

Well, as it is it's very easy to sand currently with the 3/3. It's never given me any fallout. Don't get me wrong, I DO want to get a 3½", I just want to know that I'm going to keep working past June first.

I don't like coating over ridges, just doesn't look healthy. So, I try not to make them.

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tapingfool

THis hand taper fella came to my job the other day, and refused to coat angles run by the roller and glazer, he said you have to go over it twice, So he walked off the job, as I was running the corners with the three..and got paid whilst he was home...

Whitey97

very nice. I'm assuming he was a veteran taper refusing to learn the "new" ways

brdn_drywall

same goes for us have you ever tried flushing over a tape that wasn't rolled and hand wiped at the tape stage, well lets just say doesn't work to well the tape is not recessed far enough and blades take it to the tape.
for him when we roll and flush that tape is to far back probably requiring 2 coats, but your the one who started the corners so your better off finishing them if he hasn't the tools.

tapingfool

All i did was sand the edges with a virtual run thru and they were done..ever try these tools for corners?

http://www.leadingedgedrywall.com/se...tter-than-ever

brdn_drywall

flushers wear out to quick, even though their cheap enough, i think their still a bad choice in the long run.
if your going to take that approach to tools then go with can-am much better quality imo.

carpentaper

i'm considering getting the can am ones someday. i'm getting pretty bored of finishing inside corners by hand.

Bevelation

^Don't mess around. Get what works. Mechanical angle heads are the way to go.

My boss decided to try the BTE flushers again after we used my 3" to finish angles for nearly a year. Yeah, let's just say we have to sand more.

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A+ Texture LLC

I just ordered the last of my columbia stuff to have a complete set, started with just a 3, was debating whether to use a 2.5 or 2, all-wall person said I should get the 2 for the first coat. I'm a little worried the taper will put on a little to much mud on though. Or will I be fine with it?

Muddauber

The only time I've used the 2" was to finish the angles close to the steel door frames on comercial jobs.

You may want to reverse that system & tape with the 3", then finish with the 2".

Bevelation

Nix 2" on tapes. Won't bury bevels enough and they'll show (sometimes depends board brand and type). I use a 3" to tape and it helps cover that up.

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A+ Texture LLC

Which one do you use for your second?

Mudshark

Bevelation,

Is that first pass on tapes with a mechanical flusher or a tin flusher?

What is your second pass?

Bevelation

3" angle head for tapes. Same 3" for finishing. No issues presently.

It's only because of not knowing how much work I have coming up that I'm not using a 3.5" to get some overlap.

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chasleem

LOL thats a good reason not to go in that direction. sorry that made me laugh. no offense just made me laugh

one man and his dog

must over lap your coats , its a must. rolplow then a 3 1/2 finisher

McDusty

exactly.

2.5" for tapes / 3.5" for finish coat.