Tricks of the Trade

 
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:58 PM   #41
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


Well whitey tell him that you will have to double up on price since he has twice as many seams . that's what we use to do but don't anymore if done properly.... at least charge him some extra for the extra labor and materials. really sucks on commercial (wood framed) jobs and the walls are 9' and the ceilings are dropped down at 8' and they want it finished for their ceiling grid so they stack the rock and the Rip goes on top , easy to hide but a real pain in the a$$ . don't they realize that it takes time for them too to cut rippers and hang them... duh!!!!!

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Old 08-12-2009, 11:37 PM   #42
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


The contractor litteraly told me this "I would rather give you the extra money than the supplier" my comment back was, "I would rather have 54"
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Old 11-10-2009, 01:47 PM   #43
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


I'm only 5'7" and about 165lbs or so, and I hang 12' 54" rock all day w/ no problem. Hang the top sheet, then then bottom. The only way I'm able to do this easily is because I use a Senco self-feeding screw gun. I lift the top sheet up, hold it against the ceiling w/ one arm, then grab the self-feeder that's clipped on my tool belt and just tack the sheet up. Try this w/ a regular screwgun, and every damned time you get the sheet up and go to grab your gun, the screw falls off before you can tack the sheet. lol Guess it just takes practice and knowing what you're doing to be able to hang by yourself all the time.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:41 PM   #44
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


A couple more points about glue... We don't put ANY screws in the field if the rock is glued. The glue will "forgive" twisted or warped studs, and set up even if it stretches 1/4", thus eliminating the wavy wall, or popped screws that can result from the "quality" lumber that gc's leave us to work with. Also, start your glue globbing 6 to 8 inches down from the top plate (apply it to the studs) because when you go to slam it up, you are less likely to roll glue down the face of the board by sliding the rock through it. you only need 25- 30" of glue per sheet because you are screwing off the perimeter, and then you also dont leave glue running out of your joints for the finisher to scrape off and cuss at. And for the same reasons never glue up your "breaking stud" where the butt joint will be.

Thank you very much,

A happy finisher. (as long as the bead is straight!)
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:42 PM   #45
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


Speaking of straight bead, has anyone tried that new clincher out? Does it help to get the bead on straight?
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:14 PM   #46
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallers View Post
Speaking of straight bead, has anyone tried that new clincher out? Does it help to get the bead on straight?
What type of new clincher are you referring to? Not that it matters because I am still using paper faced and no coat, but would be interesting to see a new tool ?
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:53 PM   #47
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


Silver, I have only seen it on Ebay! I just looked on all-wall, and low and behold, a new tool they DON'T have! Anyway Its called the beadmaster and they have it for 90, 135, and bull. It's obviously just a new spin on an old product, but I'm going to buy one for my rocker and see if that will fix him! oop, fix his bead I mean. If not, its on to another rocker. I'm thinkin 3 or 4 whacks just to set it and then air stapler to secure it. oh yeah, its only 25 bucks!
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:13 PM   #48
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


The 135 would be useless, seeing as no builder or framer even frames for outside odd angles. It's straitflex or ultraflex on those. Hey-- have you seen the hydratrim??? I will post a thread in the rocking segment so we can hear feedback about it, unless that is what you are using now. You just spray it with water, roll it, and it's done. theoretically. I believe no coat makes it.
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Old 03-15-2010, 03:47 AM   #49
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


Found out that punching a few small holes (using a drywall screw) in the center of the the solid discs cuts down the severity of sanding using the PC sander. The perforated Joest discs behave nice too, but every time I throw a solid disc on my pc without holes it squeezes out the air from the center of the disc and holds itself too tight to the ceiling (even with the vacuum off or disconnected). The few holes in the disc prevents that.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:47 AM   #50
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Re: Tricks of the Trade


have you ever sagged a string for arch .15 ft across arch 3 ft up in center example . chalk level line between 15ft marks measure down 3 ft in center let string sag makes a perfect pattern. cool dude in broken arrow
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