Tricks of the Trade

silverstilts

Well whitey tell him that you will have to double up on price since he has twice as many seams . that's what we use to do but don't anymore if done properly.... at least charge him some extra for the extra labor and materials. really sucks on commercial (wood framed) jobs and the walls are 9' and the ceilings are dropped down at 8' and they want it finished for their ceiling grid so they stack the rock and the Rip goes on top , easy to hide but a real pain in the a$$ . don't they realize that it takes time for them too to cut rippers and hang them... duh!!!!!

Whitey97

The contractor litteraly told me this "I would rather give you the extra money than the supplier" my comment back was, "I would rather have 54"

rocker7969

I'm only 5'7" and about 165lbs or so, and I hang 12' 54" rock all day w/ no problem. Hang the top sheet, then then bottom. The only way I'm able to do this easily is because I use a Senco self-feeding screw gun. I lift the top sheet up, hold it against the ceiling w/ one arm, then grab the self-feeder that's clipped on my tool belt and just tack the sheet up. Try this w/ a regular screwgun, and every damned time you get the sheet up and go to grab your gun, the screw falls off before you can tack the sheet. lol Guess it just takes practice and knowing what you're doing to be able to hang by yourself all the time.

Wallers

A couple more points about glue... We don't put ANY screws in the field if the rock is glued. The glue will "forgive" twisted or warped studs, and set up even if it stretches 1/4", thus eliminating the wavy wall, or popped screws that can result from the "quality" lumber that gc's leave us to work with. Also, start your glue globbing 6 to 8 inches down from the top plate (apply it to the studs) because when you go to slam it up, you are less likely to roll glue down the face of the board by sliding the rock through it. you only need 25- 30" of glue per sheet because you are screwing off the perimeter, and then you also dont leave glue running out of your joints for the finisher to scrape off and cuss at. And for the same reasons never glue up your "breaking stud" where the butt joint will be.

Thank you very much,

A happy finisher. (as long as the bead is straight!)

Wallers

Speaking of straight bead, has anyone tried that new clincher out? Does it help to get the bead on straight?

silverstilts

What type of new clincher are you referring to? Not that it matters because I am still using paper faced and no coat, but would be interesting to see a new tool ?

__________________
aka the rock doctor

Wallers

Silver, I have only seen it on Ebay! I just looked on all-wall, and low and behold, a new tool they DON'T have! Anyway Its called the beadmaster and they have it for 90, 135, and bull. It's obviously just a new spin on an old product, but I'm going to buy one for my rocker and see if that will fix him! oop, fix his bead I mean. If not, its on to another rocker. I'm thinkin 3 or 4 whacks just to set it and then air stapler to secure it. oh yeah, its only 25 bucks!

Wallers

The 135 would be useless, seeing as no builder or framer even frames for outside odd angles. It's straitflex or ultraflex on those. Hey-- have you seen the hydratrim??? I will post a thread in the rocking segment so we can hear feedback about it, unless that is what you are using now. You just spray it with water, roll it, and it's done. theoretically. I believe no coat makes it.

Saul_Surfaces

Found out that punching a few small holes (using a drywall screw) in the center of the the solid discs cuts down the severity of sanding using the PC sander. The perforated Joest discs behave nice too, but every time I throw a solid disc on my pc without holes it squeezes out the air from the center of the disc and holds itself too tight to the ceiling (even with the vacuum off or disconnected). The few holes in the disc prevents that.

grid ninja

have you ever sagged a string for arch .15 ft across arch 3 ft up in center example . chalk level line between 15ft marks measure down 3 ft in center let string sag makes a perfect pattern. cool dude in broken arrow

tricounty dwall

saul what i usually do us cut a x in the center of the disc. if u dont it sucks to the rocks.

Saul_Surfaces

yeah, cutting an 'x' is likley quicker than punching holes. Thanks.

Bill from Indy

the beadmaster got dropped years ago....best clincher ever imho..I had a prototype that was made out of aluminum

they were designed to be used with air too..they had a different head that attached where the black plunger is and you hook an airhose to it..pull the trigger like a nailgun but it bit the teeth to clinch

they had a few different ones...green was 90 orange was 135 and I think blue or yellow was bullnose..

The rumor I heard, is that the mfgr was a guy out of Florida and got the patent..made his $ on it and stopped making more...The big problem was people were using them with a regular mallet like you would on a normal clincher and it would split the head where it attached to the frame

I want to say they have been out of business for at least 8yrs but I could be wrong...my personal opinion is that if you find them on ebay, buy them up if you do a lot of metal bead..I have seen them on there from time to time, but I don't do a lot of metal bead anymore

I still have a 135 somewhere in the garage...it don't work the greatest though because it don't splay the bead enough..it bites like a champ, but you have to do a lot of fill on one side or both...the green 90 clincher is the one to get

MIKE FROM NH

same here !

alltex

put alum in your hot mud to make it set faster

DSJOHN

Alltex,you stole my secret,we,ve been doing that with our plaster mixes for years, the accelerator sold at blowes and HD is the same as alum, works great with hot mud. JOHN

Capt-sheetrock

Speaking of alum,,,

If you mix it with greem persimmon juice and make it into a paste and then rub it on your head,,,,

well It won't grow hair, but it WILL suck your side-burns up on top of your head!!!!!!!!!

DSJOHN

Can.t stop laughing at that one Capt!!! I take it your aunt Emma used to can? JOHN

drywallOne

bead clinch is only to set the bead in place to screw it off later ....if you clinch and dont screw it will crack with the slightest bump.

I dont let my guys use a clinch, i think its a step you dont need to do ...with stand ups under 12 feet there is no need to snap a chalk line....vert i always snap to make sure there straight.

Alot of hack's will clinch and tape without screwing which is faster but not a better job.

Imo

2buckcanuck

hour working union guys putting on metal beads with screws, is and always was scary sh1t.
-And you use a chalk line (not even a laser) to get your bead straight ,Is it not your eyes that tell you if it's crooked ...hint
-hey I'm in a union too but it's a piece workers union ,we learnt a long time ago not to let a carpenter/rocker install bead.
here's some links for you since your a foreman.
http://www.drywallschool.com/paperbead.htm
http://trim-tex.com/products/prefinished.php
welcome to 2010