Tricks of the Trade

evolve991

SO good to see there are still quality minded hangers out there!! I hope there is still a demand for quality where you guys are because around here its all about blowing a house out in 2 days and convincing homeowners they don't know what they're looking at.

butcherman

Heres one as a finisher who also rocks. Get metal tracks cut them at 5' in length. On ceiling butt joints only. Run the joints bettween studs. Screw metal track to both sides of butt joint and to the boards above and below. If you look at the tracks they have tabs on each side of the track. When the butt joint is screwed to the middle the tabs slightly push the board down and makes a recess in the butt joint. This way you don't have to float a wide butt joint. USG makes a product with this in mind but the tracks serve the same purpose and cost less.

Muddauber

I've thought about trying the track method also.
What guage track do you use?I think if I were to use 25g the center of the track would pull down to the board instead of the board pulling up to the track. So would I need to use 20g or heavier?

butcherman

Definately use the heavier gauge. You want the joints to curl up slightly. I actually use a chop saw to cut them at my warehouse and stock them there. Saves time , material , and frustration on rough meets. 20 or heavier is good. Never tried light gauge for that. Also sometimes my guys run out and try 2x4's. I can't for the life of me figure out how they don't realize it defeats the purpose. I guess because they do nothing but hang. What i'm saying is make sure your crew understands the reason or you might meet resistance. Just make sure its not flat on the face of the track.

evolve991

I'd be all for that! You would actually save time NOT cutting 12's back to 128" or 120" to hit the UP. BUT try convincing anyone around here! They still want us to use rips with no rolled edge!

Mr Wallboard

I tape all my exterior bead corners for insurance.

Screw Everything

Measure 2wice

Ventilation

intensifier

Don't hurt yourself.
set your lifters on the floor and set your bottom sheet down on the lifter/lifters.. tack only one or two screws on the top of the sheet. mark the remaining studs with pencil and then stack the top sheet on. hold the two adjoining bevels with one hand, undo the screws and then lift both sheets up with the lifters. zip in some screws and there you go!

intensifier

Are you nuts?

AndrewA

You can also turn you tape around an mark the length on the back side of your tape. It will curve around the radius easily and gives an accurate measurement. It is also how i pull layout on a radius.

Willie T

So, you're lifting both top and bottom boards at once? You don't have trouble with the joint stagger?

Willie T

Nice work if you can get it. That is, unfortunately, a guaranteed flag catcher here In St. Petersburg. They won't even buy it if you use clips at every stud or firring strip.

Kozzmo

This is only good if the wall is under 12'.Plus.it takes 2 kickers. And even then,it's not that good.I;ll bet I can hang the wall faster by myself one sheet at a time than you two can like that.:]

Kozzmo

You know the little cutting wheel on a circle hole cutter? I used rivets to put one on the end of my 25' stanley tape measure!Talk about cutting butts & rips easily !It's easy to replace when my tape breaks and yes,I can still pull measurements from trusses or studs with no help.I know alot of us have been doing this a long time and I'm tellin' ya guys...this is a killer trick of the trade !

Darren@Partners

On that stretch(54) board...May not work if you're under 6' but I use a 17" handle in my hammer and start my nails in the top of the sheet just like on 8' stuff. I can hang 12 and 14 stretch but need a hand on 16's. If the hanger is too short start the nails at each end but as high as you can reach and use a helper. Your back will thank you later.

Raising two sheets at once, stacked can't be safe, and if you've got to use 2 lifters... I don't see how your saving any time or help. Plus all that weight is bound to destroy the bottom rail and taper will have to fix.

intensifier

basically, I am talking about closets and small stuff like that.. you don't have to use two men for a big sheet. If you want to bigsheet that way, then WHY NOT "if you can make it work" this system does work very well for closets and split sheets and it is very fast if you figure out exactly how to doit!

rockdaddy

never, ever, ever, ever put a bellyband on you wall.Put the plug on hte bottom so trim can cover it up. Anything bigger than 6 inches can go at the top or at the bottom.

aschnit

belly bands in the middle of the wall rule!

alltex

here here!

silverstilts

Belly Bands are a thing of the past. With 54" board no need to have a butt seam running through the middle of the wall anything over 9' split another sheet and fit the factory edges together. Belly bands use way to much mud and are very time consuming to finish and make right. The amount of mud and time spent you might as well cough up the extra $$ for the proper sheetrock for the job... If I have walls 8' 4" usually buy enough 54" to do one row around the walls and rip it down a couple of inches . A lot less finish time .

Whitey97

Tell that to one of my contractors, who still has me do that.... so annoying