Drywall Talk - Professional Drywall and Finishing Contractors Forum banner

Stone Wall Hand Texture

9K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  carpentaper 
#1 ·
Im gonna work on making a stone pattern with mud. Ill post pics of it.Not like a brick pattern but like uneven stone with lines,voids seperating them but not perfectly straight,any suggestions or ideas to achieve this. If you can picture just pulling the mud on the rock pretty thick, taking a clean knife and breaking off areas and then sand down the edges to round it. Maybe use one of those concrete stamps??? Any help would be greatly appreciated,ive learned some cool sh:t and new ideas from you guys.
 
#4 ·
Yes it could look cool,but now your going to have me thinking about it all day tomorrow.:yes:
It would take artistic talent ,,,,,for sure,,,,so it has to be dumbed down some how,if you know what I mean,that's where patterns/stamps may half to come into play .
 
#6 ·
How about having a few hunks of stone handy and pressing them into the mud? It avoids having a stamp made/purchased, although it would be indented rather than proud...(unless you could find indented pieces of stone)

It seems like the mud would need to be on really thick to create profiles. I also thought about using rough canvas to create a stone-like texture, but then you'd have to spend a lot of time creating mortar joints by hand. I think the main problem with stamps is that they look like stamps:blink:

I like the idea though:).
 
#7 ·
lol,u guys rock. Thats funny that its stuck in our heads now. Im setting here watching tv and looking around at different stuff in living room thinking,wonder if that would work. Im gonna do it. If a guy could figure it out i bet some people would throw down some money to have it done in their "McMansions". Just to be the first one on the block. The beauty of it is that the stone look would not be "perfect" lines and sizes like a brick pattern would have to be. When done u could rag in the black glaze in the joints around them,this could be cool. Have a good superbowl sunday,hope no ones working,peace:thumbup:
 
#8 ·
I have seen the brick pattern scored into plaster before, so I think I know what you're driving at. I think freehand is the way to go, maybe with a masons joint striker (the rounded kind) to make the outlines of the stones. You would make a drawing right on the mud with a pencil, or use a projector if you wanted.

The key with something like that is catching the mud at it perfect drying/setting point. When I worked in ceramics it was called the leather-hard stage, where it was dry enough to be carved but wet enough so as not to splinter and crack when you tooled it.
 
#9 ·
When I worked in ceramics it was called the leather-hard stage, where it was dry enough to be carved but wet enough so as not to splinter and crack when you tooled it.
This is the expression for American
Clay application as well, although some have also taken to calling it "in-love".

For example: "I waited until the wall was in love, and then I went over it with the plastic trowel."

Hey, don't look at me like that....I wasn't the one who made it up.
 
#11 ·
You need to mix #20 silica sand into your mud. Use quite a bit so that the mud dosen't crack. Skim the entire wall or walls as your base coat. Once you have put the base coat down it is just a matter of putting the finishing coat on. Use the same mud with the sand in it, lay it on in highs and lows leaving voids and trowel lines. Don't be afraid to use lots of sand. Your base coat should be around a 1/4 - inch thick to get the depth needed to look like stone. Your top coat can be as thick as you want. Done right you can make a small room look like a cave. Perfect texture for wine cellars. Customers have never seen nothing like it, they love it. And the best part - NO SANDING.:thumbup:
 
#12 · (Edited)
Wholeheartedly agree.

By throwing in some Plaster of Paris you get an ability to carve a little differently. It really adds to the effect and makes the mud less "sticky" so it acts like cement. It also turns regular mud into a fast setting material (it gets hotter with more P of P). The silica suggested by JohhnyMud is vital though #30 might be better for smoother "stone." If you're doing a large area you may want to throw a little plaster retarder in there. This will allow you to build some real thick surfaces over a large area.

We had to match stone around some badly framed sliding doors in Portland years ago and the same formula worked really well.

I did some research and found that there are rubber templates you can buy that would make the job go a lot faster.



They add color in this one...



Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top