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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 8
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Hello gentlemen,
I'm new to the forum, and also somewhat new to the world of professional drywall. I'm putting together a "specification sheet" of the actual steps that we take to hang drywall, because we do some "extra" things that increase our time and material (and quality). When a prospective customer asks what our price per sq/ft is, I don't consider the comparison an "apples to apples" because each different contractor has a different method of installation. ANYWAYS, I'm writing up the advantages of using the Durabond joint compound on all the seams. I think I have the basics down, but would you all be kind enough to list all of the different advantages (both to yourself and to the homeowner) of using the product, and also any disadvantages I might not be aware of? Thanks. And I already know I talk too much, but feel free to tell me anyways. -JB |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: brandon manitoba canada
Posts: 214
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if you'd be kind enough to send me some i'll let you know,i'm a pro roc taper there regional rep spoiles me with to much freebies i haven't tried anything else in years(i don't know.......maybe a pallet and i could give you the pros and cons on it)
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#3 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 8
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Quote:
I agree to your product trial. I have placed a full pallet of Durabond out by my mail box with a note on it that says "please ship this to brdn_drywall from the internet". I'll look forward to hearing your review. |
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#4 |
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Paul the Plasterer
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
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This may help:
http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Con...Sheet_J17A.pdf I like to think of it as taking the worry out of a situation that contains worry. Its a no worries solution. Paul. |
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 8
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Paul,
That document is exactly what I had in mind, thank you very much. We've been promoting the advantages as 1) better bond, 2) seal out moisture/humidity, 3) reduce cracks/blemishes. If anyone has any other thoughts or wants to share their experience (good or bad), your comments would be welcome. Thanks for the info so far. |
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#6 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1
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The 2 advantages of durabond are less shrinkage and drying time, perfect for the 1st coat. A little harder to sand than topping.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South West Michigan
Posts: 144
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The only disadvantage that I can think of. You have to be careful to keep it super flat or you will get crowned joints. I don't like the way topping or all purpose runs over the top of it.
I've used Magnum AP for tape and bed coat and and USG Powder topping for 29 years. They are greasy through the tools. Good for older goats. Old dogs can learn new tricks |
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 8
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Thanks for the info above, especially the note on the potential crowning disadvantage.
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 33
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We use high denisity 90 for taping through the taper.Light sand 90 in the 10inch,and regurlar mud for finishing.Pro's is you can coat flats and angles in the same day.Just have to be careful not to get to heavey on the bond.When rought sanding make sure the edges and stop marks are sanded good,or the mud will sand but the bond wont.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South West Michigan
Posts: 144
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I did this beauty shop about 23 years ago. They wanted a knock down texture.
I didn't have any texture mud but I had a half a dozen brown bag durabond 210. Spun it up and splattered it on. Gave it about 15 minutes and wiped it down. Made the best looking texture I've ever seen. Give it a whirl. Don't try it with the easy sand. It's to fluffy and doesn't slide through the gun and blows apart to much. Tycoon |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 38
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I like it for 2 reasons.
The obvious is the dry time. But secondly the way it finishes. Whever I am doing smaller projects like a basement or an addition , I will run all 90 minute through my mud box. I'll than clean out my box and go back with a stainless steel knife and literally polish all the flats and buttjoints I just did.If you rub the durabond right before it sets up it polishes like glass. It totally eliminates sanding on the bed coat. I had one customer who was so cheap he only wanted one coat on everything......so I used this technique ,hence my new nickname was born. They call me "The 1 Coat Wonder".....lol |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
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your 10" or your 12"?
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 38
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I only use the 10" mud boxes. I do kinda like the way the 12 looks when finished, but all in all it just seems on all the applications I've ever used it on that they work just the same.(only a 12 is harder for a new guy to push ,takes more time and it eats up more mud).
Than I follow up with a 10" knife after. This is the only time I use a stainless steel knife...............I couldn;t pull a stick of bead with a stainless, but it does work nice on the follow up behind the mud box. |
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#14 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 576
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I really don't know what to think , drying time ?????? it may set up but that don't mean that the moister is gone ,,,, and whats the point unless it is a small job of course , but then again some are saying to make sure to rough sand , what the hell , sand ? what kinda taper that is a good taper needs to sand in between coats , don't sound like a time saver to me , or make sure you don't crown the joints sounds like an amature , could be wrong i don't think you save a whole lot of time myself thinking about having to mix the **** up and then worry about cleaning your tools up..... Quick set does have its place for very small jobs and patch work not really to tape out any major jobs and surly not for quality jobs .. of course this is only my opinion and if ya don't like it don't really give a ****...
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 33
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Silver.I.am not saying that the bond is dry or you have to sand after taping.I guess you haven't read any of threads,I mostly do modular homes and the first coats are in bond.I just said to make sure to rought sand good.(what is taped today is painted tomorrow).There's no other way.
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#16 | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 576
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Quote:
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South West Michigan
Posts: 144
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I agree with SilverStilts on the problems with durabond not drying and bubbling on top coats.
The new thread says he is new to to the world of drywall. That is a beginner. Telling someone to be careful not to crown the joints with bond does not indicate I'm an amateur. Sometimes I do get paid for my jobs. Where we may all think we are legends in our own minds I did crown some joints back in 1981. I thought I was a pro like SilverStilts. Silver, are you Swedish or Norwegian ? |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
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10-1 I say he's Norwegian
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South West Michigan
Posts: 144
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Avgjord !
No good Swedish brother would imply that I am an amateur. Was told that a Norwegian is a Swede without brains. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South West Michigan
Posts: 144
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Was that a racist remark?
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